18th December, the journey begins

Little car is packed to the gunwales and we're raring to go; the snow starts. By the time we join the motorway at Greenock, half an hour later, we are driving through a blizzard and wondering if the decision to travel was a wise one, given our only mode of transport is our little MX5 - an impulse purchase a few months ago.

By the time we get to Loch Lomondside (A82), the snow has stopped and the roads are clear - of snow and traffic, and we carry on to our destination, Bluebell Cottage, Arisaig. Our first stop is at the famous the Green Welly complex in Tyndrum, which features in Scotland the Best and is a member of the Taste of Scotland scheme. Now, this is a famous stopping place for car loads and coach loads of tourists, so imagine how disappointed we were when we visited the restaurant and were served up over-salted, gloopy (carrot and cream of mushroom) soups, stoury (dry and unpalatable - John's definition) cake (date & walnut, and something better forgotten), and undrinkable coffee. On the plus side, the toilets although not of Alhambra standard (the pinnacle of public toilet provision, according to John), were well stocked and clean - important aspects of public toilets that cannot be taken for granted.

We set off again, trying to ignore the fact that we have lovely homemade sandwiches and a flask of Kenyan coffee in the car, and have just spent £12(ish) on sustenance which, if typical of what the Green Welly normally offer to tourists, is downright embarrassing and a complete misrepresentation of all that is good about Scottish fare, see for example, Drambuie porridge in the blog for December 25th.

Next stop Fort William (don't start me! - fabulous location, shame about the shabby town - but then, who cares, when Loch Linnhe is so beautiful and Ben Nevis so imposing?), and Morrison's for holiday provisions. I recommend their soft brown sugar, by the way - a great warm smell of molasses and a bag you can open without finding the contents on the floor round your feet (take note, Tesco).

Now comes the really amazing part - the road journey from Fort William to Arisaig (A830), one of the most spectacular drives in the country, but the need for careful winter-weather driving meant that we didn't stop to admire the views, but see December 24th for our reflections on the Mallaig - Fort William train journey, which follows an almost parallel route to the road.

We finally arrive safely at our destination, to a warm welcome from our hosts, who greet us with self-catering essentials, some Scottish fare (oatcakes, tablet, shortbread), free-range eggs and Sicilian wine - a warm welcome indeed! Bluebell cottage is beautifully appointed, and we particularly love the skylight windows which allow us to fall asleep looking up at the stars. Can't wait to explore the village and surrounding area in the morning.