22nd December - 2nd attempt at finding Rhu

Another bright and crispy morning. We decided as we had the full day to try and make it all the way to Rhu so set off to repeat our journey of a couple of days previously. We could have driven, but the roads were still icy in places so we went on foot. Our goal was Rhu cottage and from there the path continued to a bay on the other side of the Arisaig peninsular. Views back to Arisaig were crystal clear.



After the bend in the road where we had turned back on our first attempt, we carefully made our way over the snow and ice until we turned south again and once more the views opened out across to Eigg and Rum

We passed a cottage, the old porter's lodge, which was deep in the cold shadows and looked as if it was bound forever in snow and frost, and on to the old pier. The road ended there and became a rough track. We carried on, determined to make it to our goal, pausing to climb a small rise and admire the view, and spare a few sad thoughts at the memorial cairn. Eventually two buildings came into sight over the horizon - but so did a large dog, baying ferociously at the sound of intruders! John took to his heels and the journey was abandoned!

Having managed to catch up with John again and slow him down, I thought perhaps lunch was in order, along with a few nips of alcoholic fortification, as is required in such situations! So, given the freezing conditions, we found ourselves a snow covered stone wall in full sunlight and settled down to enjoy our cheese rolls - a fruity, creamy Wensleydale for me (highly recommended; must have that again) and Arran cheddar (a regular favourite) for John - hot Kenyan coffee and a warming nip from the hip flask. A nosy robin showed up, but wasn't to be tempted by our crumbs.

Our journey back was uneventful and we were back in the cottage by mid-afternoon. As the light was fading, we were lucky enough to catch sight of two stags foraging in the scrub behind the cottage.

Yes, there are two stags in the picture - amazingly well camouflaged! We had been watching the one standing by the fence for quite a while before we realised the second one was there!

We went to Cnoc na Faire for dinner, as this was the last night it would be open until after Christmas. We were welcomed warmly and settle down with our Southern Comforts (on its own for John, with bitter lemon for me) to peruse the menu. John selected a juicy steak and the chef rustled up an excellent mushroom stroganoff for me, accompanied by a good bottle of South African red. Good food, good decor, an amazing setting, a Johnny Rotten lookalike landlord and a globe trotting waitress - definitely worth a visit.

21st December - first attempt at An Camus Daroch - the 'Local Hero' beach

Another bright, cold, crisp day. Thermals and boots on, hip flask ready and we're away - in search of An Camus Darach, more popularly known as the 'Local Hero' beach from the film of that name. We set out from the car park on the opposite side of the road from the golf course, on the road between Back of Keppoch and Morar. It was a beautiful day, with a low winter's sun.

Although paths and rocks (some scrambling was involved!) were thick with ice and treacherous in places, the walk was well worth the effort. Sturdy boots with good soles are recommended! It's not a particularly long walk, but taking in the view, rock pooling and just generally enjoying the place all take some time, especially on such a cold day. As ever, the views of Eigg and Rum were breath-taking. We also came across some squidgy, quilt/marshmallow type sand - something new to both of us!! You can see it in the foreground of the next photo.

On the way back we were walking towards the setting sun.

It was too cold to stop for a picnic and our Mars bars had frozen in the back pack, so we waited until we got back to the car to warm ourselves with some hot coffee and a nip of Drambuie!

20th December, walk to Back of Keppoch

There is a coastal route, a 'B' road, out of Arisaig that leads to Back of Keppoch, this is the road we decided to walk on the 20th, because the coastal path marked on the map was difficult to find! The day was beautiful though cold and the road gave us clear views back towards the Roshven Mountains and out across Loch nan Ceall.

There was little traffic on the road and few pedestrians, not surprising given that we were in a fairly remote part of Scotland, and the weather was very wintry i.e. snowy, icy and bitterly cold! What we didn't expect see was a man on his mobility scooter, looking for all the world as if he was heading down Sauchiehall Street!  And, what we definitely didn't expect to see shortly after, was Santa driving a snow plough!!

Coming into the Back of Keppoch one of the first things you notice is Cnoc-na-Faire, a hotel in an excellent situation - standing on a hill overlooking the township. The hotel is also remarkable for its art deco-style building. We visited Cnoc-na-Faire afer our beach walk and enjoyed a delicious bowl of homemade tomato soup and a warm bread roll, while taking in great views of the winter landscape, and, after chatting to the landlord, made plans to visit again for an evening meal before it closed for a few days over Christmas.

Our pre-prandial walk took us down an icy road through a campsite (closed!) at the mouth of a frozen river, Allt Cam Carrach. A moored boat provided Daisy with another boat photo opportunity.

We wandered onto the snowy beach and spent sometime exploring and sitting on the rocks, watching the sea and the distant islands, keeping out the cold by sipping Drambuie from our hip flask.