23rd December - day off

After all the trudging through snow and tottering over icy roads and paths, I woke up exhausted and suggested that we 'took the day off'! So we did! We spotted a robin sheltering in the wheelarch of little car - an opportune moment for a photo!

Come the evening, we figured we ought to at least get some air, so we went for a tweenlight stroll through a still frozen Arisaig and watched the sun go down.

It was dark by the time we headed for home so we were able to enjoy the Arisaig Christmas illuminations! - we should have photographed them, but we didn't - you'll need to go and see for yourself one year!

22nd December - 2nd attempt at finding Rhu

Another bright and crispy morning. We decided as we had the full day to try and make it all the way to Rhu so set off to repeat our journey of a couple of days previously. We could have driven, but the roads were still icy in places so we went on foot. Our goal was Rhu cottage and from there the path continued to a bay on the other side of the Arisaig peninsular. Views back to Arisaig were crystal clear.



After the bend in the road where we had turned back on our first attempt, we carefully made our way over the snow and ice until we turned south again and once more the views opened out across to Eigg and Rum

We passed a cottage, the old porter's lodge, which was deep in the cold shadows and looked as if it was bound forever in snow and frost, and on to the old pier. The road ended there and became a rough track. We carried on, determined to make it to our goal, pausing to climb a small rise and admire the view, and spare a few sad thoughts at the memorial cairn. Eventually two buildings came into sight over the horizon - but so did a large dog, baying ferociously at the sound of intruders! John took to his heels and the journey was abandoned!

Having managed to catch up with John again and slow him down, I thought perhaps lunch was in order, along with a few nips of alcoholic fortification, as is required in such situations! So, given the freezing conditions, we found ourselves a snow covered stone wall in full sunlight and settled down to enjoy our cheese rolls - a fruity, creamy Wensleydale for me (highly recommended; must have that again) and Arran cheddar (a regular favourite) for John - hot Kenyan coffee and a warming nip from the hip flask. A nosy robin showed up, but wasn't to be tempted by our crumbs.

Our journey back was uneventful and we were back in the cottage by mid-afternoon. As the light was fading, we were lucky enough to catch sight of two stags foraging in the scrub behind the cottage.

Yes, there are two stags in the picture - amazingly well camouflaged! We had been watching the one standing by the fence for quite a while before we realised the second one was there!

We went to Cnoc na Faire for dinner, as this was the last night it would be open until after Christmas. We were welcomed warmly and settle down with our Southern Comforts (on its own for John, with bitter lemon for me) to peruse the menu. John selected a juicy steak and the chef rustled up an excellent mushroom stroganoff for me, accompanied by a good bottle of South African red. Good food, good decor, an amazing setting, a Johnny Rotten lookalike landlord and a globe trotting waitress - definitely worth a visit.

20th December, walk to Back of Keppoch

There is a coastal route, a 'B' road, out of Arisaig that leads to Back of Keppoch, this is the road we decided to walk on the 20th, because the coastal path marked on the map was difficult to find! The day was beautiful though cold and the road gave us clear views back towards the Roshven Mountains and out across Loch nan Ceall.

There was little traffic on the road and few pedestrians, not surprising given that we were in a fairly remote part of Scotland, and the weather was very wintry i.e. snowy, icy and bitterly cold! What we didn't expect see was a man on his mobility scooter, looking for all the world as if he was heading down Sauchiehall Street!  And, what we definitely didn't expect to see shortly after, was Santa driving a snow plough!!

Coming into the Back of Keppoch one of the first things you notice is Cnoc-na-Faire, a hotel in an excellent situation - standing on a hill overlooking the township. The hotel is also remarkable for its art deco-style building. We visited Cnoc-na-Faire afer our beach walk and enjoyed a delicious bowl of homemade tomato soup and a warm bread roll, while taking in great views of the winter landscape, and, after chatting to the landlord, made plans to visit again for an evening meal before it closed for a few days over Christmas.

Our pre-prandial walk took us down an icy road through a campsite (closed!) at the mouth of a frozen river, Allt Cam Carrach. A moored boat provided Daisy with another boat photo opportunity.

We wandered onto the snowy beach and spent sometime exploring and sitting on the rocks, watching the sea and the distant islands, keeping out the cold by sipping Drambuie from our hip flask.

19th December, John's birthday

We woke to a fine red sky, and the promise of a cold, crisp day. Birthday presents opened and breakfast eaten, we set off to explore the village. We were fortified by several layers of winter clothing, including or thermal underwear and a hip flask filled with Drambuie. The bay was frozen and stretched out towards views across to the islands of Eigg and Rum.

As it was nearly lunchtime we popped into the Rhu Cafe for a bite to eat and to check out opening times over the coming few days. We had visited the cafe several years previously and it was just as we had remembered - cosy, good food, friendly service, and with hints of South Africa in the decor and the wine menu. John recommends the special recipe square sausage in a roll, followed by a warm doughnut. It turned out we were there only a few hours before they closed for their Christmas break, and as the famous Old Library restaurant was closed for the winter, taking John out for a birthday meal was off the menu!!

After our early lunch, we decided to take a walk along the road out of the village signposted for Rhu (3 1/2 miles). The first distraction was a couple of ponies in a snowy paddock.

 Once the white pony had had enough of posing for his photo we continued our walk. More views opened up across Loch nan Ceall to Eigg and Rum.

The shores of the Loch were icebound.

After Morroch, the road takes a sharp bend to the left, and along the shores of  the bay, Camus an t-Salainn, nestle a cluster of houses. We carried on walking for another hour before deciding against completing the walk that day, because we want to be back at the cottage before dark. On the way back we stopped to listen to the ice cracking in one of the icy inlets, an amazing sound in the freezing stillness of the fading winter's day.

 When we got back to the bay of Camus an t-Salainn, the houses were reflected in the cold, clear water; a fabulous photo opportunity.

Arriving back at Morroch, we had fine views across the water to Arisaig, and Daisy played on a rope swing, closely observed by a robin - John couldn't be tempted!

A little boat was moored in the bay providing Daisy with her first real opportunity to photograph a boat - Daisy is partial to taking photos of boats, as will become apparent!!

As we rounded the corner on the last leg of the road home, we caught a glimpse, between the trees, of the full moon rising - our photography skills don't do the moment justice.

18th December, the journey begins

Little car is packed to the gunwales and we're raring to go; the snow starts. By the time we join the motorway at Greenock, half an hour later, we are driving through a blizzard and wondering if the decision to travel was a wise one, given our only mode of transport is our little MX5 - an impulse purchase a few months ago.

By the time we get to Loch Lomondside (A82), the snow has stopped and the roads are clear - of snow and traffic, and we carry on to our destination, Bluebell Cottage, Arisaig. Our first stop is at the famous the Green Welly complex in Tyndrum, which features in Scotland the Best and is a member of the Taste of Scotland scheme. Now, this is a famous stopping place for car loads and coach loads of tourists, so imagine how disappointed we were when we visited the restaurant and were served up over-salted, gloopy (carrot and cream of mushroom) soups, stoury (dry and unpalatable - John's definition) cake (date & walnut, and something better forgotten), and undrinkable coffee. On the plus side, the toilets although not of Alhambra standard (the pinnacle of public toilet provision, according to John), were well stocked and clean - important aspects of public toilets that cannot be taken for granted.

We set off again, trying to ignore the fact that we have lovely homemade sandwiches and a flask of Kenyan coffee in the car, and have just spent £12(ish) on sustenance which, if typical of what the Green Welly normally offer to tourists, is downright embarrassing and a complete misrepresentation of all that is good about Scottish fare, see for example, Drambuie porridge in the blog for December 25th.

Next stop Fort William (don't start me! - fabulous location, shame about the shabby town - but then, who cares, when Loch Linnhe is so beautiful and Ben Nevis so imposing?), and Morrison's for holiday provisions. I recommend their soft brown sugar, by the way - a great warm smell of molasses and a bag you can open without finding the contents on the floor round your feet (take note, Tesco).

Now comes the really amazing part - the road journey from Fort William to Arisaig (A830), one of the most spectacular drives in the country, but the need for careful winter-weather driving meant that we didn't stop to admire the views, but see December 24th for our reflections on the Mallaig - Fort William train journey, which follows an almost parallel route to the road.

We finally arrive safely at our destination, to a warm welcome from our hosts, who greet us with self-catering essentials, some Scottish fare (oatcakes, tablet, shortbread), free-range eggs and Sicilian wine - a warm welcome indeed! Bluebell cottage is beautifully appointed, and we particularly love the skylight windows which allow us to fall asleep looking up at the stars. Can't wait to explore the village and surrounding area in the morning.