25th December

What better way to start the day than with Drambuie porridge, served with Morrison's aromatic, moist, soft brown sugar - the culinary discovery of the holiday!!

We have opted out of Christmas for the second year and it's quite liberating. The hardest thing is to make other people understand that we are not taking part in all the commercial side of things but we do still have a nice Christmas day and dinner - anyway, lets get on with the day!

Breakfast had, dishes done, hip flask, ready - time for a walk to Camus Darach, and for my new hat to get its first outing. After looking at the map, we had decided that where we were previously, wasn't Camus Darach after all (we hadn't followed the path far enough) and we didn't want to leave without having visited the famous beach. This time we drove to a parking place near the Camus Darach campsite, from where there was a fairly well defined, short path.

It was another lovely but freezing day and the sky was bright inspite of all the clouds, and we soon reached the deserted, broad expanse of Camus Darach beach.

It was all so beautiful I had to take a phone picture and send it to my daughter, author of Samantha's Kitschen and budding photographer extraordinaire!

We spent an amazing time just soaking up the scenery before heading back to little car, stopping for a spot of rock pooling on the way.

John, trying to pretend he was on top of a mountain, supervised the rock pooling activity from the dizzy heights (well, from a rock about 18 inches high!)

21st December - first attempt at An Camus Daroch - the 'Local Hero' beach

Another bright, cold, crisp day. Thermals and boots on, hip flask ready and we're away - in search of An Camus Darach, more popularly known as the 'Local Hero' beach from the film of that name. We set out from the car park on the opposite side of the road from the golf course, on the road between Back of Keppoch and Morar. It was a beautiful day, with a low winter's sun.

Although paths and rocks (some scrambling was involved!) were thick with ice and treacherous in places, the walk was well worth the effort. Sturdy boots with good soles are recommended! It's not a particularly long walk, but taking in the view, rock pooling and just generally enjoying the place all take some time, especially on such a cold day. As ever, the views of Eigg and Rum were breath-taking. We also came across some squidgy, quilt/marshmallow type sand - something new to both of us!! You can see it in the foreground of the next photo.

On the way back we were walking towards the setting sun.

It was too cold to stop for a picnic and our Mars bars had frozen in the back pack, so we waited until we got back to the car to warm ourselves with some hot coffee and a nip of Drambuie!

19th December, John's birthday

We woke to a fine red sky, and the promise of a cold, crisp day. Birthday presents opened and breakfast eaten, we set off to explore the village. We were fortified by several layers of winter clothing, including or thermal underwear and a hip flask filled with Drambuie. The bay was frozen and stretched out towards views across to the islands of Eigg and Rum.

As it was nearly lunchtime we popped into the Rhu Cafe for a bite to eat and to check out opening times over the coming few days. We had visited the cafe several years previously and it was just as we had remembered - cosy, good food, friendly service, and with hints of South Africa in the decor and the wine menu. John recommends the special recipe square sausage in a roll, followed by a warm doughnut. It turned out we were there only a few hours before they closed for their Christmas break, and as the famous Old Library restaurant was closed for the winter, taking John out for a birthday meal was off the menu!!

After our early lunch, we decided to take a walk along the road out of the village signposted for Rhu (3 1/2 miles). The first distraction was a couple of ponies in a snowy paddock.

 Once the white pony had had enough of posing for his photo we continued our walk. More views opened up across Loch nan Ceall to Eigg and Rum.

The shores of the Loch were icebound.

After Morroch, the road takes a sharp bend to the left, and along the shores of  the bay, Camus an t-Salainn, nestle a cluster of houses. We carried on walking for another hour before deciding against completing the walk that day, because we want to be back at the cottage before dark. On the way back we stopped to listen to the ice cracking in one of the icy inlets, an amazing sound in the freezing stillness of the fading winter's day.

 When we got back to the bay of Camus an t-Salainn, the houses were reflected in the cold, clear water; a fabulous photo opportunity.

Arriving back at Morroch, we had fine views across the water to Arisaig, and Daisy played on a rope swing, closely observed by a robin - John couldn't be tempted!

A little boat was moored in the bay providing Daisy with her first real opportunity to photograph a boat - Daisy is partial to taking photos of boats, as will become apparent!!

As we rounded the corner on the last leg of the road home, we caught a glimpse, between the trees, of the full moon rising - our photography skills don't do the moment justice.

18th December, the journey begins

Little car is packed to the gunwales and we're raring to go; the snow starts. By the time we join the motorway at Greenock, half an hour later, we are driving through a blizzard and wondering if the decision to travel was a wise one, given our only mode of transport is our little MX5 - an impulse purchase a few months ago.

By the time we get to Loch Lomondside (A82), the snow has stopped and the roads are clear - of snow and traffic, and we carry on to our destination, Bluebell Cottage, Arisaig. Our first stop is at the famous the Green Welly complex in Tyndrum, which features in Scotland the Best and is a member of the Taste of Scotland scheme. Now, this is a famous stopping place for car loads and coach loads of tourists, so imagine how disappointed we were when we visited the restaurant and were served up over-salted, gloopy (carrot and cream of mushroom) soups, stoury (dry and unpalatable - John's definition) cake (date & walnut, and something better forgotten), and undrinkable coffee. On the plus side, the toilets although not of Alhambra standard (the pinnacle of public toilet provision, according to John), were well stocked and clean - important aspects of public toilets that cannot be taken for granted.

We set off again, trying to ignore the fact that we have lovely homemade sandwiches and a flask of Kenyan coffee in the car, and have just spent £12(ish) on sustenance which, if typical of what the Green Welly normally offer to tourists, is downright embarrassing and a complete misrepresentation of all that is good about Scottish fare, see for example, Drambuie porridge in the blog for December 25th.

Next stop Fort William (don't start me! - fabulous location, shame about the shabby town - but then, who cares, when Loch Linnhe is so beautiful and Ben Nevis so imposing?), and Morrison's for holiday provisions. I recommend their soft brown sugar, by the way - a great warm smell of molasses and a bag you can open without finding the contents on the floor round your feet (take note, Tesco).

Now comes the really amazing part - the road journey from Fort William to Arisaig (A830), one of the most spectacular drives in the country, but the need for careful winter-weather driving meant that we didn't stop to admire the views, but see December 24th for our reflections on the Mallaig - Fort William train journey, which follows an almost parallel route to the road.

We finally arrive safely at our destination, to a warm welcome from our hosts, who greet us with self-catering essentials, some Scottish fare (oatcakes, tablet, shortbread), free-range eggs and Sicilian wine - a warm welcome indeed! Bluebell cottage is beautifully appointed, and we particularly love the skylight windows which allow us to fall asleep looking up at the stars. Can't wait to explore the village and surrounding area in the morning.