25th December

What better way to start the day than with Drambuie porridge, served with Morrison's aromatic, moist, soft brown sugar - the culinary discovery of the holiday!!

We have opted out of Christmas for the second year and it's quite liberating. The hardest thing is to make other people understand that we are not taking part in all the commercial side of things but we do still have a nice Christmas day and dinner - anyway, lets get on with the day!

Breakfast had, dishes done, hip flask, ready - time for a walk to Camus Darach, and for my new hat to get its first outing. After looking at the map, we had decided that where we were previously, wasn't Camus Darach after all (we hadn't followed the path far enough) and we didn't want to leave without having visited the famous beach. This time we drove to a parking place near the Camus Darach campsite, from where there was a fairly well defined, short path.

It was another lovely but freezing day and the sky was bright inspite of all the clouds, and we soon reached the deserted, broad expanse of Camus Darach beach.

It was all so beautiful I had to take a phone picture and send it to my daughter, author of Samantha's Kitschen and budding photographer extraordinaire!

We spent an amazing time just soaking up the scenery before heading back to little car, stopping for a spot of rock pooling on the way.

John, trying to pretend he was on top of a mountain, supervised the rock pooling activity from the dizzy heights (well, from a rock about 18 inches high!)

24th December - Mallaig and Morar

Train journey over, we were back in Mallaig in time for lunch in the Fish Market Restaurant, situated at the harbour. Again, great service, friendly staff and delicious homemade tomato soup.

And, after lunch took a stroll along the quayside to watch what little activity there was on that bitterly cold Christmas Eve afternoon.

We decided to explore the Mallaig shops and found ourselves in WayOutWest, a rickety wooden shed, built on stilts, over the harbour and guarded by Ordinary Seaman Jack! It was something of an Aladdin's cave selling outdoor clothing, jewellery, toys and gifts. It was here I decided I needed a warm hat to combat these sub-zero temperatures, so John treated me to a  kuSan hat, which will feature in subsequent chilly blogs!!

The shop across the road furnished us with some Bruichladdich Islay whisky miniatures for John, which we neglected to bring home after our visit to Islay, last year. Then it was off back down the road in little car, until we decided to take a detour and have a closer look at Morar. Once we were off the main road, it was a precarious journey along the lochside on an icy single track road, with steep hills, sharp bends and nowhere to turn - not ideal for an open top sports car - that aside - the location was spectacular!! We didn't go all the way to the jetty at Bracorina, the icy conditions were just too bad. Once we did managed to turn around, we stopped to take advantage of some photo opportunities on the journey back.

24th December the Mallaig- Fort William train

If ever you find yourself in this part of the world the train journey between Mallaig and Fort William, voted the most scenic in the world, is a must! Check out the video link to compare the journey made during the summer with our winter one!

In the summer months you can do it in style on the Jacobite steam enginge, but we did it on the local diesel train, a dirty ramshackle thing with no working toilets (£12 return) - but who cares?! with scenery like that, the transport really didn't matter. The train is infrequent though, so check the timetable before setting off.

The journey takes you through 11 short tunnels, past Britain's shortest river (Morar), deepest fresh water loch (Morar), most westerly rail station (Arisaig), the famous 21-arch Glenfinnan Viaduct, Neptune's staircase - 12 locks on the Caledonian Canal, deepest seawater loch (Loch Nevis) and the UK's tallest mountain (Ben Nevis) and, when we did the journey, past frozen lochs, through the shadowy glens of frozen snow and rivers, with trees sepulchrally shrouded in inches of frost, and deer and stags foraging on the frozen grass. On the Mallaig to Fort William journey we were glued to the windows.On the journey back we took some photos, not too successfully through dirty, moving train windows - but what a magical trip!

Loch Eil, freezing fog:


Glenfinnan viaduct:

Glenfinnan Monument:



Glenfinnan station:

Loch Eylt, frozen:

23rd December - day off

After all the trudging through snow and tottering over icy roads and paths, I woke up exhausted and suggested that we 'took the day off'! So we did! We spotted a robin sheltering in the wheelarch of little car - an opportune moment for a photo!

Come the evening, we figured we ought to at least get some air, so we went for a tweenlight stroll through a still frozen Arisaig and watched the sun go down.

It was dark by the time we headed for home so we were able to enjoy the Arisaig Christmas illuminations! - we should have photographed them, but we didn't - you'll need to go and see for yourself one year!

22nd December - 2nd attempt at finding Rhu

Another bright and crispy morning. We decided as we had the full day to try and make it all the way to Rhu so set off to repeat our journey of a couple of days previously. We could have driven, but the roads were still icy in places so we went on foot. Our goal was Rhu cottage and from there the path continued to a bay on the other side of the Arisaig peninsular. Views back to Arisaig were crystal clear.



After the bend in the road where we had turned back on our first attempt, we carefully made our way over the snow and ice until we turned south again and once more the views opened out across to Eigg and Rum

We passed a cottage, the old porter's lodge, which was deep in the cold shadows and looked as if it was bound forever in snow and frost, and on to the old pier. The road ended there and became a rough track. We carried on, determined to make it to our goal, pausing to climb a small rise and admire the view, and spare a few sad thoughts at the memorial cairn. Eventually two buildings came into sight over the horizon - but so did a large dog, baying ferociously at the sound of intruders! John took to his heels and the journey was abandoned!

Having managed to catch up with John again and slow him down, I thought perhaps lunch was in order, along with a few nips of alcoholic fortification, as is required in such situations! So, given the freezing conditions, we found ourselves a snow covered stone wall in full sunlight and settled down to enjoy our cheese rolls - a fruity, creamy Wensleydale for me (highly recommended; must have that again) and Arran cheddar (a regular favourite) for John - hot Kenyan coffee and a warming nip from the hip flask. A nosy robin showed up, but wasn't to be tempted by our crumbs.

Our journey back was uneventful and we were back in the cottage by mid-afternoon. As the light was fading, we were lucky enough to catch sight of two stags foraging in the scrub behind the cottage.

Yes, there are two stags in the picture - amazingly well camouflaged! We had been watching the one standing by the fence for quite a while before we realised the second one was there!

We went to Cnoc na Faire for dinner, as this was the last night it would be open until after Christmas. We were welcomed warmly and settle down with our Southern Comforts (on its own for John, with bitter lemon for me) to peruse the menu. John selected a juicy steak and the chef rustled up an excellent mushroom stroganoff for me, accompanied by a good bottle of South African red. Good food, good decor, an amazing setting, a Johnny Rotten lookalike landlord and a globe trotting waitress - definitely worth a visit.

21st December - first attempt at An Camus Daroch - the 'Local Hero' beach

Another bright, cold, crisp day. Thermals and boots on, hip flask ready and we're away - in search of An Camus Darach, more popularly known as the 'Local Hero' beach from the film of that name. We set out from the car park on the opposite side of the road from the golf course, on the road between Back of Keppoch and Morar. It was a beautiful day, with a low winter's sun.

Although paths and rocks (some scrambling was involved!) were thick with ice and treacherous in places, the walk was well worth the effort. Sturdy boots with good soles are recommended! It's not a particularly long walk, but taking in the view, rock pooling and just generally enjoying the place all take some time, especially on such a cold day. As ever, the views of Eigg and Rum were breath-taking. We also came across some squidgy, quilt/marshmallow type sand - something new to both of us!! You can see it in the foreground of the next photo.

On the way back we were walking towards the setting sun.

It was too cold to stop for a picnic and our Mars bars had frozen in the back pack, so we waited until we got back to the car to warm ourselves with some hot coffee and a nip of Drambuie!

20th December, walk to Back of Keppoch

There is a coastal route, a 'B' road, out of Arisaig that leads to Back of Keppoch, this is the road we decided to walk on the 20th, because the coastal path marked on the map was difficult to find! The day was beautiful though cold and the road gave us clear views back towards the Roshven Mountains and out across Loch nan Ceall.

There was little traffic on the road and few pedestrians, not surprising given that we were in a fairly remote part of Scotland, and the weather was very wintry i.e. snowy, icy and bitterly cold! What we didn't expect see was a man on his mobility scooter, looking for all the world as if he was heading down Sauchiehall Street!  And, what we definitely didn't expect to see shortly after, was Santa driving a snow plough!!

Coming into the Back of Keppoch one of the first things you notice is Cnoc-na-Faire, a hotel in an excellent situation - standing on a hill overlooking the township. The hotel is also remarkable for its art deco-style building. We visited Cnoc-na-Faire afer our beach walk and enjoyed a delicious bowl of homemade tomato soup and a warm bread roll, while taking in great views of the winter landscape, and, after chatting to the landlord, made plans to visit again for an evening meal before it closed for a few days over Christmas.

Our pre-prandial walk took us down an icy road through a campsite (closed!) at the mouth of a frozen river, Allt Cam Carrach. A moored boat provided Daisy with another boat photo opportunity.

We wandered onto the snowy beach and spent sometime exploring and sitting on the rocks, watching the sea and the distant islands, keeping out the cold by sipping Drambuie from our hip flask.

19th December, John's birthday

We woke to a fine red sky, and the promise of a cold, crisp day. Birthday presents opened and breakfast eaten, we set off to explore the village. We were fortified by several layers of winter clothing, including or thermal underwear and a hip flask filled with Drambuie. The bay was frozen and stretched out towards views across to the islands of Eigg and Rum.

As it was nearly lunchtime we popped into the Rhu Cafe for a bite to eat and to check out opening times over the coming few days. We had visited the cafe several years previously and it was just as we had remembered - cosy, good food, friendly service, and with hints of South Africa in the decor and the wine menu. John recommends the special recipe square sausage in a roll, followed by a warm doughnut. It turned out we were there only a few hours before they closed for their Christmas break, and as the famous Old Library restaurant was closed for the winter, taking John out for a birthday meal was off the menu!!

After our early lunch, we decided to take a walk along the road out of the village signposted for Rhu (3 1/2 miles). The first distraction was a couple of ponies in a snowy paddock.

 Once the white pony had had enough of posing for his photo we continued our walk. More views opened up across Loch nan Ceall to Eigg and Rum.

The shores of the Loch were icebound.

After Morroch, the road takes a sharp bend to the left, and along the shores of  the bay, Camus an t-Salainn, nestle a cluster of houses. We carried on walking for another hour before deciding against completing the walk that day, because we want to be back at the cottage before dark. On the way back we stopped to listen to the ice cracking in one of the icy inlets, an amazing sound in the freezing stillness of the fading winter's day.

 When we got back to the bay of Camus an t-Salainn, the houses were reflected in the cold, clear water; a fabulous photo opportunity.

Arriving back at Morroch, we had fine views across the water to Arisaig, and Daisy played on a rope swing, closely observed by a robin - John couldn't be tempted!

A little boat was moored in the bay providing Daisy with her first real opportunity to photograph a boat - Daisy is partial to taking photos of boats, as will become apparent!!

As we rounded the corner on the last leg of the road home, we caught a glimpse, between the trees, of the full moon rising - our photography skills don't do the moment justice.