Monday, 17 January 2011

22nd December - 2nd attempt at finding Rhu

Another bright and crispy morning. We decided as we had the full day to try and make it all the way to Rhu so set off to repeat our journey of a couple of days previously. We could have driven, but the roads were still icy in places so we went on foot. Our goal was Rhu cottage and from there the path continued to a bay on the other side of the Arisaig peninsular. Views back to Arisaig were crystal clear.


After the bend in the road where we had turned back on our first attempt, we carefully made our way over the snow and ice until we turned south again and once more the views opened out across to Eigg and Rum



We passed a cottage, the old porter's lodge, which was deep in the cold shadows and looked as if it was bound forever in snow and frost, and on to the old pier. The road ended there and became a rough track. We carried on, determined to make it to our goal, pausing to climb a small rise and admire the view, and spare a few sad thoughts at the memorial cairn. Eventually two buildings came into sight over the horizon - but so did a large dog, baying ferociously at the sound of intruders! John took to his heels and the journey was abandoned!

Having managed to catch up with John again and slow him down, I thought perhaps lunch was in order, along with a few nips of alcoholic fortification, as is required in such situations! So, given the freezing conditions, we found ourselves a snow covered stone wall in full sunlight and settled down to enjoy our cheese rolls - a fruity, creamy Wensleydale for me (highly recommended; must have that again) and Arran cheddar (a regular favourite) for John - hot Kenyan coffee and a warming nip from the hip flask. A nosy robin showed up, but wasn't to be tempted by our crumbs.

Our journey back was uneventful and we were back in the cottage by mid-afternoon. As the light was fading, we were lucky enough to catch sight of two stags foraging in the scrub behind the cottage.



Yes, there are two stags in the picture - amazingly well camouflaged! We had been watching the one standing by the fence for quite a while before we realised the second one was there!

We went to Cnoc na Faire for dinner, as this was the last night it would be open until after Christmas. We were welcomed warmly and settle down with our Southern Comforts (on its own for John, with bitter lemon for me) to peruse the menu. John selected a juicy steak and the chef rustled up an excellent mushroom stroganoff for me, accompanied by a good bottle of South African red. Good food, good decor, an amazing setting, a Johnny Rotten lookalike landlord and a globe trotting waitress - definitely worth a visit.

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